Chosen Design Practice on Partner

Katherine gave me her final design to do on her hair. Honestly, I panicked a little bit. I looked at the yards and yards of ongoing hair she has and wanted to cry a little bit because I had no idea how I was going to do her design in the time given and also because I want her hair so badly.

She told me not to worry and I thought to myself just give it a go and see what happens! So here is the design she drew for me.

Ater working out where I would need to section the hair and what would need doing first, I actually felt a lot more at ease with the design. I timed myself so I could figure out how much I should speed up or what I could take my time at perfecting.

Step By Step

1. Section the hair horizontally just above the ear and clip the bottom half out the way.
2. Section off roughly a two inch band round the front and clip the rest of the hair out the way.
3. Part the band in the center.
4. Create a plait starting roughly at the top left and right of the forehead. The plait must be pulled at one strand to create a slightly different effect. Tie off with elastic.
5. Take back the top section of hair and section roughly 2-3 inches of hair in the center creating 3 new sections of hair. Clip the left and right sections out the way.
6. With the 2-3 inch rectangle, form a dutch plait.
7. Using suitably heated crimpers, crimp the top left and right sections.
8. Once cool, brush the hair through and work through backcombing it.

9. Take the left section and split horizontally into two. Roll the bottom section up and pin. Roll the top section down over the bottom roll and pin. Repeat with the right side.
10. Thread rope through the dutch plait in the center and incorporate it all the way through the plait.
11. Let loose the hair at the bottom section and brush it evenly over the shoulders.
12. Secure the material decoration around the neck and hair.

After the first practice I was actually very suprised at myself for completing the design in a reasonable time. I wasn't too happy about the way the two rolls were sitting as they sagged a bit due to there being so much hair! This is when we decided to try two rolls to make it more secure.
We also decided to change the plaits at the front. On Katherine's design, she originally wanted two plaits on either side however with all the baby hairs she has, it made it near enough impossible to do this. I suggested doing one plait either side instead and tested it out which actually looked better.

I also practiced on Lil Nik as I wanted to test out putting the decoration in the hair. As I had no thread or rope to hand, I grabbed the closest thing I had, my phone charging wire. I used my pin tail comb to wiggle the wire through.

 

Overall, I'm confident for the assessment now and I actually really enjoy doing this style. It's nice creating something different using simple techniques.

Rick Rack

Rick-racking is another technique that gives a similar effect to crimping. It gives a waved or zig-zag look to the hair and can be styled in to a look.

Method

1. Brush the hair through to untangle.
2. Section the hair with pin-taik comb where you would like to rick-rack. I sectioned roughly half an inch at the front.
3. Use a fine pin and place the middle at the root with the prongs facing away from scalp.
4. Weave the hair around the two prongs in a figure of 8 motion. Push the hair down every so often.
5. Secure the end by placing a grip over the hair and fine pin.

6. Use suitably heated straighteners and hold over the hair/fine pin for around 5 seconds.
7. Wait to cool and then unravel the hair.

8. At this point you can brush it through, leave it how itis or pull it apart with your fingers depending on the kind of look you are going for.

 

I found this technique really effective and I really liked the outcome. The downfall to this is that it takes a lot of time to create the rick-rack. I would love to use this design in my final piece however I feel like I would have to make it a simple design in order to do the rick-racking in time.

Creating Contemporary style on partner

How do you put all the techniques you've learnt in previous weeks together to create a contemporary style with elements of the Elizabethan era?

Well, I tried and this is what happened.
My beautiful model Annabel pulled off this subtle bridal look and here is how I did it.

Tools used:
-Paddle brush
-Pintail comb
-Sectioning clips
-Curlers
-Grips

Method:
1. Brush through the hair and get rid of any knots
2. Section it half way above the ear and clip the top part out the way.
3. Starting from the bottom spiral curl the hair and grip in place.
4. With the top section lift curl the hairl and grip in place.

 

5. Once cool, unravel the hair and pull apart with fingers.

6. Section about a 2 inch band by the forehead to the ears.
7. Part this band in the middle and then clip the two sections out the way.
8. Work from the forehead, section small parts with the pintail comb and backcomb by the roots. Only do the crown on the head.
9. Once complete, let hair flow down the back and lightly brush comb over the top to smooth it off. This should have created a small subtle bouffant.
10. Move back to the two sections at the front. Create french plaits and grip then at the back of the head.
11. Hair spray to finish and hold.

I was quite pleased with the look. The curling took up most of the time but overall it didnt actually take too long to complete. It was a bit tricky to curl Annabel's hair as it is slightly thin and tends to start dropping while it is gripped in place however the curl still looked really nice and natural. 

Creating Elizabethan Style

So this week we practiced a typical Elizabethan design on a partner.

It was strange working with Lil Nik for a couple weeks and then going to a real person.

I started off by sectioning off the front to create the heart shape. I crimped this part of the hair then brushed it through and backcombed it. It was then rolled up and positioned into the typical heart shape.

With the remaining hair I tied up in a ponytail. I sectioned off a small amount of hair at the bottom before putting into a ponytail.

At first I did a modern curl bun. I didnt think it looked very Elizabethan so I took it out and did a plait bun instead.
With the bit of hair at the bottom I used a 3 barrel tong that creates a wave in the hair. This made it look like the tendrils I have seen quite often in the Elizabethan period.

The style took roughly an hour to create which I am quite happy with. I managed to dive right into the task given and Im happy with my finished result. I found it strage to work with a moving person as Ive got so used to working with Lil Nik. I liked working with longer hair with a differet texture and colour. I still cant decide if I liked having my model trying to help me with the design. I suppose it has good and bad sides! Its good to see someone elses point of view and ideas. On the other hand, its my practice time and I should be adjusting the style until im happy.

Overall this week was really productive! I really enjoyed partnering up and being a model and an artist. It's been a good way of introducing myself on working on other peoples hair.

Crimping and Frizzing

Today, I got my hands on a pair of crimpers. I cant say I have ever had my hair crimped or been the one crimping someone elses hair but I was looking forward to try it though.

So what I needed for this was:
-Paddle brush
-Pintail comb
-Sectioning clips
-Crimpers!

I used the paddle brush first to brush all the hair through and get rid of any knots.
I then took sections of the hair no wider than the plates of the crimpers and around an inch or two thick using my pintail comb. Its best to start at the bottom of the head and work your way up.
Making sure the crimpers are heated to a suitable temperature for the hair, clamp the hair near the root and hold for 2-4 seconds. Dont burn the models scalp!
I worked my way down the lenght of hair and repeated in sections until it was all crimped. Wait to cool off!

Now to frizz!
Use the paddle brush and brush through all of the hair that has been crimped.

To add more to the frizz you can backcomb.
Take sections of hair roughly 3 by 2. Hold the hair by the ends and use a pintail comb to gently push the hair towards the root.
Repeat this with all of the hair!

Backcomb and Padding

To form a typical Elizabethan style, we need to create the well know heart shaped bump. This week we learnt two different ways of making those shapes.

To start off, I crimped the entire head of hair on Lil Nik. Once crimped and cooled off I brushed it through which creates the frizzed texture that we see often in Elizabethan styles.

I then sectioned off about 4 to 6 inches of hair at the front to work with. The rest of the hair was tied up and put out of the way in the meantime. With the hair at the front, I placed a center parting to try out my two different techniques.

Padding Technique

This just requires a prop that is placed inside the roll to form a structure. The prop I used was just stuffed tights roughly the size of my hand.
The prop is placed on the inside with the hair pulled over and pinned underneath.

Backcomb Technique

1. Take portions of the hair about 1 to 2 inches thick.
2. Backcomb the hair starting from the bottom. Hold the tip of the hair with one hand and use the comb to gently push the hair towards the root. Do this up the length of the hair.
3. Repeat until all hair required has been backcombed.

4. Manipulate the hair with fingers to get rid of gaps in the hair.
5. Roll the hair up to create shape required and pin underneath by the scalp.
6. Use grips to pin down any wispie parts or bits that may need to move.

I did the padding technique on the right and the backcomb on the left (face forward) and you can see a noticeable difference. The padded side looks smoother and more structured where as the backcombed side looks more frizzed and textured.
Although padding is a lot quicker and looks neater, I really prefered backcombing as I felt more in control of the hair and I liked the untamed look.

Curling and Brick Work

Curling hair comes quite natural to me as I do it to my own hair all the time. The difference is, I use barrelled straighteners and the finish is different. We were taught two different techniques and the results really show!

Spiral Curl Technique

1. Brush the hair thouroughly
2. Section off the hair that needs curling and then section off a bit to start with. It should be no wider than the curling tongs being used and an inch or two in thickness. Also it is easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.
3. When the tongs are heated to a suitable temperature, place the end of the hair into the barrel and vertically roll towards the scalp. Make sure not to roll the hair in opposition to the way its been placed into the barrel as this will cause a kink in the curls.
4. Hold as close to the scalp as possible without burning the client for 10-12 seconds. You can touch the hair with your fingers to make sure the heat is coming through.
5. Gently pull the tongs out, keeping the hair still rolled up.
6. Place a grip in the roll against the scalp to keep in the same position while it cools down.
7. Repeat this in small sections, make sure to alternate ways the hair is curling. Decide if you want the hair curled away from the face or vice versa. Do this until all the hair is rolled up and pinned. Allow enough time for the hair to cool.

8. Take all the grips out allowing the hair to unravel. Pull apart using fingers or brush through. Keep adjusting untill desired look is obtained.
9. Hairspray to keep in place.

Lift Curl Technique

1. Brush hair thoughroughly
2. Section off the hair that needs curling and then section off a bit to start with. It should be no wider than the curling tongs being used and an inch or less in thickness. Also it is easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.
3. When the tongs are heated up to a suitable temperature, place the end on the hair into the barrel and roll horizontally towards the scalp. It it better to start with the hair held up high and roll down to the head creating the lift.
4. Hold as close to the scalp as possible without burning the client for 10-12 seconds. You can touch the hair with your fingers to make sure the heat is coming through.
5. Gently pull the tongs out, keeping the hair still rolled up.
6. Place a grip in the roll against the scalp to keep in the same position while it cools down.
7. Repeat this in small sections, make sure to alternate ways the hair is curling. Do this until all the hair is rolled up and pinned. Allow enough time for the hair to cool.

8. Take all the grips out allowing the hair to unravel. Pull apart using fingers or brush through. Keep adjusting untill desired look is obtained.
9. Hairspray to keep in place.

I did both methods on either side of Lil Nik and you can see a noticeable difference in the curl. The lift curl does obviously have more volume but I think the spiral curl shows the curl more. I dont really have a preference to one as I think it all depends in what look the stylist is going for. These techniques can also be carried out slightly differently to get a different look. For example, the spiral curl can be done just at the ends of long hair rather than the full length. They can all be curled in the same way to create one big roll.

Lift curl (left) Spiral curl (right)

I found it quite easy to do these techniques although very time consuming. I was pleased with the results and would more than likely use this technique again. I would also like to try it on longer hair to see if the result would be different.

Brickwork
To make curling look more natural, we used a technique called brickwork. This basically hides any gaps from sectioning the hair when curling.

This is a chart of how the sections should be placed in the hair. I sectioned a part on the back of Lil Nik's head and started the lift curl technique.

Again, once cool, I unravelled the hair and pulled it apart with my fingers.

 

As you can see, the hair does look fuller and you cant see the gaps apart from at the top where there is less hair. To get rid of this I should have tried brushing the hair through.