Spiral Curl Technique
1. Brush the hair thouroughly
2. Section off the hair that needs curling and then section off a bit to start with. It should be no wider than the curling tongs being used and an inch or two in thickness. Also it is easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.
3. When the tongs are heated to a suitable temperature, place the end of the hair into the barrel and vertically roll towards the scalp. Make sure not to roll the hair in opposition to the way its been placed into the barrel as this will cause a kink in the curls.
4. Hold as close to the scalp as possible without burning the client for 10-12 seconds. You can touch the hair with your fingers to make sure the heat is coming through.
5. Gently pull the tongs out, keeping the hair still rolled up.
6. Place a grip in the roll against the scalp to keep in the same position while it cools down.
7. Repeat this in small sections, make sure to alternate ways the hair is curling. Decide if you want the hair curled away from the face or vice versa. Do this until all the hair is rolled up and pinned. Allow enough time for the hair to cool.
8. Take all the grips out allowing the hair to unravel. Pull apart using fingers or brush through. Keep adjusting untill desired look is obtained.
9. Hairspray to keep in place.
Lift Curl Technique
1. Brush hair thoughroughly
2. Section off the hair that needs curling and then section off a bit to start with. It should be no wider than the curling tongs being used and an inch or less in thickness. Also it is easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.
3. When the tongs are heated up to a suitable temperature, place the end on the hair into the barrel and roll horizontally towards the scalp. It it better to start with the hair held up high and roll down to the head creating the lift.
4. Hold as close to the scalp as possible without burning the client for 10-12 seconds. You can touch the hair with your fingers to make sure the heat is coming through.
5. Gently pull the tongs out, keeping the hair still rolled up.
6. Place a grip in the roll against the scalp to keep in the same position while it cools down.
7. Repeat this in small sections, make sure to alternate ways the hair is curling. Do this until all the hair is rolled up and pinned. Allow enough time for the hair to cool.
8. Take all the grips out allowing the hair to unravel. Pull apart using fingers or brush through. Keep adjusting untill desired look is obtained.
9. Hairspray to keep in place.
I did both methods on either side of Lil Nik and you can see a noticeable difference in the curl. The lift curl does obviously have more volume but I think the spiral curl shows the curl more. I dont really have a preference to one as I think it all depends in what look the stylist is going for. These techniques can also be carried out slightly differently to get a different look. For example, the spiral curl can be done just at the ends of long hair rather than the full length. They can all be curled in the same way to create one big roll.
Lift curl (left) Spiral curl (right)
I found it quite easy to do these techniques although very time consuming. I was pleased with the results and would more than likely use this technique again. I would also like to try it on longer hair to see if the result would be different.
Brickwork
To make curling look more natural, we used a technique called brickwork. This basically hides any gaps from sectioning the hair when curling.
This is a chart of how the sections should be placed in the hair. I sectioned a part on the back of Lil Nik's head and started the lift curl technique.
Again, once cool, I unravelled the hair and pulled it apart with my fingers.
As you can see, the hair does look fuller and you cant see the gaps apart from at the top where there is less hair. To get rid of this I should have tried brushing the hair through.
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